Sunday, June 06, 2010

Three Savory Condiments


When we have the chance to get out of NYC in the summer we often go to our friend Howard’s house in the Springs. The central theme of these weekends is relaxation, food and wine of course. Having spent many weekends over the years being excited by the process of creating meals either based around a particular ingredient or wine, there have also been a fair share of moments when I felt more tethered to the kitchen dreaming up and executing elaborate meals, rather than the relaxation of the sun and the pool. Last summer I finally embraced the essence of this place and the fact that, in this environment, simple is best. So whether our menus involve a vegetable salad of beets, carrots and radishes or tuna tartare or grilled lamb, these simply prepared meals are enhanced, sometimes even transformed by one of the basic condiments I have taken to preparing and having on hand:

Herb Pesto
Aioli
Romesco

Tuna Tartare with Anchovy Aioli

Anchovy Aioli
2 cloves of garlic
2 large egg yolk from cage free chickens
generous pinch of Celtic sea salt
1 fillet of oil packed anchovy
1T lemon juice
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pound garlic and anchovy with the Celtic salt in a mortar. Place in a clean bowl and whisk in the egg yolk and lemon juice. Begin to add the oil, a few drops at a time, to yolk mixture, whisking constantly, until all oil is incorporated and mixture is emulsified. Chill, covered, until ready to use.



Tuna Tartare
Serves 4
3/4 lb sushi quality tuna or yellow tail
1 T extra-virgin olive oil
2 T salt packed capers
2 T finely minced shallot
2 T finely chopped chives
1 T coarse ground mustard
juice of one lemon
Celtic sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preparation:
Chop the tuna into very small dice, about 1/4 inch. Mix with the olive oil, capers, shallot, chives, and mustard. Squeeze lemon juice over the tuna and mix well to incorporate. Taste, then season with salt and pepper to your liking.