The last several weeks I've been so excited to eat, almost every day, some variation of cabbage "slaw". It’s kind of funny because this is a fetish that usually arrives during the fall when more rustic and hearty greens arrive at their peak in the market. But this year the green market was offering lovely heads of cabbage throughout the summer. Red cabbage, green cabbage, Savoy cabbage. So I’ve been making cabbage slaw with ginger, jalapeno, turmeric, lime, cilantro and coconut milk or with ume vinegar, sesame oil, shoyu, black sesame seeds, daikon radish and ginger; the variations go on and on. I bought a beautiful head of green cabbage on Wednesday when the heat was still on and the sun high. I was already working my way through a red cabbage slaw and knew I wouldn't get to this lovely head until Friday. So when Friday arrives and we wake to a cool, gray, rainy day that has me running around in rain boots all day, I have the first glimpse of what's ahead: Autumn. Excited yet with a touch of melancholy, I am reminded that we are in the midst of a seasonal transition. Transitions, both seasonal and certainly any life transition can create a sense of uneasiness and a feeling for wanting to be grounded. So I'm with this head of cabbage and some beautiful wild Alaskan King Salmon. The rain, the rain boots and umbrella in the corner and the sudden gray coolness all confer to make me realize a cool, crisp slaw won't do. Instead, I want something warm more aligned with what's ahead. So coconut oil, cumin seed, ginger, red scallion make their way into the pan. Once the mix is fragrant and the scallions are softened I add the cabbage, which I have lightly salted, rinsed and drained to break down the cell walls a bit so that the cooking time and heat can be reduced. Once it’s gently wilted I add a touch of sea salt, turmeric and chopped jalapeno and cilantro to brighten and deepen the flavors. The result is warm, satisfying and nourishing. This time of year I do find myself shift between wanting simple foods in their raw and fully energized state and something a bit more grounding, centering and warming. I am reminded that it is vital to remain flexible and responsive when considering how to nourish myself. Responsive to the seasons and their changes and especially to what is happening inside of my body, heart and mind; not to some external constraints such as “to be raw or not to be”. Remembering that, above all, eating should be a joyful, nourishing and inclusive experience.
Cabbage-Hemp Slaw
1 head Savoy or green cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
Celtic Sea Salt, for salting the cabbage
½ cup mung bean sprouts
3-5 scallions, sliced thinly on the diagonal
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced
2T ginger, finely diced
1/4 cup currants
1/3 cup shredded coconut, optional
2 tbsp lime juice
1/4 cup olive or hemp oil
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2-1t Celtic or Himalayan salt
¼ cup hemp seeds
2 tbsp black sesame seeds
½ cup cilantro, chopped
Place the cabbage in a large bowl and generously salt with course Celtic sea salt. Massage the salt in to cabbage and let stand for about 15 minutes to help soften the cabbage. When softened to your liking, rinse well and drain.
Combine the cabbage with the mung beans, scallions, jalapeno, ginger, currants and coconut, if using. Whisk, by hand, the lime juice, olive or hemp oil, turmeric and cumin powder. Pour over the cabbage and toss to combine then season with Celtic or Himalayan salt to taste. If possible, chill for at least an hour and toss thoroughly again before serving. This will allow all the flavors to mingle and blend. Garnish with hemp, black sesame seeds and cilantro and serve as a refreshing salad or side dish.
