AUTUMN WEEKEND

We were able to grab a rare weekend by ourselves in the Hamptons this past weekend.  The weather was glorious and we spent the days doing things that we wouldn't normally do in the summer months, when the crowds are fierce.  On Saturday we went to the North Fork to check out some Long Island wineries.  We drove into Sag Harbor and took the ferry to Shelter Island then hopped the North Ferry to Greenport. After orienting ourselves at the Southhold visitors center we promptly found The Northfork Table & Inn.  This lovely spot is owned and run by Claudia Flemming and Gerry Hayden.  While I worked at Gramercy Tavern, Claudia was the award-winning pastry chef there.  We were able to catch up with Claudia outside their newly launched Lunch Truck, her version of a roadside stand, tucked behind a lovely mural of the kind of old fashioned pickup truck she was looking for but could not find. Kirk  took a fabulous lobster roll for the road. There is no better treat when it is done right in the Hamptons, and this one was. He was in heaven. Claudia suggested we visit McCall Vineyards in Cutchogue. Although they have been growing and harvesting Pinot Noir and Merlot grapes for close to 15 years there, they just bottled their first eponymous wines in 2007.  Compared to some of the more established vineyards, they have just started tastings in their converted barn. The simplicity of the space was perfect. The wine was beautiful too. We tasted their 2007 Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Reserve and Merlot. We enjoyed a bottle of the 2007 Merlot that evening with Lava Lake lamb rib chops, grilled eggplant and spicy mustard greens. 

Sunday we drove out to the surfer's beach at Ditch Plains and soaked in the warmth and wind, the beauty of the changing light, waves and surfers.  Later we drove to Gosman's Dock had some steamers and went to the fish market there to pick up some local day boat scallops.  The scallops were destined to be grilled for dinner.  I served them with a beet and red cabbage salad loosely adapted from a recipe by Fergus Henderson. We finished the meal with a simple salad of green figs, fennel and parsley and a bit of Le Chevrot. McCall's 2007 Pinot Noir was a lovely accompaniment to this meal.

Beet & Red Cabbage Salad with Crème Fraîche
adapted from “Beyond Nose to Tail Cooking” by Fergus Henderson.
Serves 4-6

For The Salad
2 beets, peeled and shredded in food processor, or grated by hand
¼ small red cabbage with its core cut out, very finely sliced

1 small red onion, peeled, cut in half and thinly sliced

fresh thyme leaves
2T capers in salt

For The Dressing
Extra-virgin olive oil
A modest splash of sherry vinegar

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

For Plating
a few spoonfuls of crème fraîche

a handful of parsley leaves

Combine all the elements of the salad adding a generous sprinkling of thyme leaves.  Add a few splashes of olive oil and a modest splash of sherry vinegar.  Toss well and allow the flavors to mingle for a bit.  Taste and season with a few generous grinds of fresh pepper and a bit of sea salt, if needed.  I find that the salt from the capers adds enough on its own.

To Plate: place a pile of the salad on the plate with a healthy spoonful of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of parsley leaves.

LATE SUMMER, SUDDENLY

The last several weeks I've been so excited to eat, almost every day, some variation of cabbage "slaw". It’s kind of funny because this is a fetish that usually arrives during the fall when more rustic and hearty greens arrive at their peak in the market. But this year the green market was offering lovely heads of cabbage throughout the summer. Red cabbage, green cabbage, Savoy cabbage. So I’ve been making cabbage slaw with ginger, jalapeno, turmeric, lime, cilantro and coconut milk or with ume vinegar, sesame oil, shoyu, black sesame seeds, daikon radish and ginger; the variations go on and on. I bought a beautiful head of green cabbage on Wednesday when the heat was still on and the sun high. I was already working my way through a red cabbage slaw and knew I wouldn't get to this lovely head until Friday. So when Friday arrives and we wake to a cool, gray, rainy day that has me running around in rain boots all day, I have the first glimpse of what's ahead: Autumn. Excited yet with a touch of melancholy, I am reminded that we are in the midst of a seasonal transition. Transitions, both seasonal and certainly any life transition can create a sense of uneasiness and a feeling for wanting to be grounded. So I'm with this head of cabbage and some beautiful wild Alaskan King Salmon. The rain, the rain boots and umbrella in the corner and the sudden gray coolness all confer to make me realize a cool, crisp slaw won't do. Instead, I want something warm more aligned with what's ahead. So coconut oil, cumin seed, ginger, red scallion make their way into the pan. Once the mix is fragrant and the scallions are softened I add the cabbage, which I have lightly salted, rinsed and drained to break down the cell walls a bit so that the cooking time and heat can be reduced. Once it’s gently wilted I add a touch of sea salt, turmeric and chopped jalapeno and cilantro to brighten and deepen the flavors. The result is warm, satisfying and nourishing. This time of year I do find myself shift between wanting simple foods in their raw and fully energized state and something a bit more grounding, centering and warming. I am reminded that it is vital to remain flexible and responsive when considering how to nourish myself. Responsive to the seasons and their changes and especially to what is happening inside of my body, heart and mind; not to some external constraints such as “to be raw or not to be”. Remembering that, above all, eating should be a joyful, nourishing and inclusive experience.


Cabbage-Hemp Slaw
1 head Savoy or green cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
Celtic Sea Salt, for salting the cabbage
½ cup mung bean sprouts
3-5 scallions, sliced thinly on the diagonal
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced
2T ginger, finely diced
1/4 cup currants
1/3 cup shredded coconut, optional
2 tbsp lime juice
1/4 cup olive or hemp oil
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2-1t Celtic or Himalayan salt
¼ cup hemp seeds
2 tbsp black sesame seeds
½ cup cilantro, chopped

Place the cabbage in a large bowl and generously salt with course Celtic sea salt. Massage the salt in to cabbage and let stand for about 15 minutes to help soften the cabbage. When softened to your liking, rinse well and drain.
Combine the cabbage with the mung beans, scallions, jalapeno, ginger, currants and coconut, if using. Whisk, by hand, the lime juice, olive or hemp oil, turmeric and cumin powder. Pour over the cabbage and toss to combine then season with Celtic or Himalayan salt to taste. If possible, chill for at least an hour and toss thoroughly again before serving. This will allow all the flavors to mingle and blend. Garnish with hemp, black sesame seeds and cilantro and serve as a refreshing salad or side dish.

Nearing Summer Solstice

Nearing the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, new moon magic and the season where the Fire element is predominant. Seasonal and daily life practices, help maintain balance and equilibrium during seasonal changes. In anticipation of the heat in the coming months, I've naturally gravitated to a primarily raw diet, emphasizing seasonal, local fruits and vegetables as well as enjoying some more tropical foods and herbs like papaya, young Thai coconut and lemongrass. I am still enjoying some consciously chosen wild-caught fish and shellfish and just had some delicious Scallop Ceviche last night. Here are two offerings.

Spicy Thai Wraps
6-8 large Collard Leaves, cut in half with center rib removed
4 c Savoy cabbage, shredded
1c bean sprouts
1c carrot, julienned
1 c mixed herbs: basil, cilantro, mint
1 cucumber, seeded and julienned
¼c cashews, chopped

Dressing
1/2 c tahini
2T maple syrup
2T sesame oil
1/4c lemon juice
2 T ginger
1 Thai red chili
2T shoyu
Filtered water, as needed

Puree the maple syrup, sesame oil, ginger, lemon juice, chili and shoyu in a high speed blender. Add the tahini and blend until smooth, adding filtered water, as necessary, to achieve a medium batter like consistency.

Combine the dressing and the cabbage, mixing thoroughly. Taste for seasoning.

To assemble: place one halved collard leaf, with the underside facing up. Place a few tablespoons of the cabbage on the bottom third of the leaf. Then arrange a few pieces of carrot and cucumber and top with bean sprout, a mix of herbs and a sprinkling of cashews. Roll the bottom of the leaf over the cabbage, tucking it under the filling to secure it. Serve with extra dressing as a dipping sauce

Scallop Ceviche
½ lb sea scallops, halved
1/2c lime juice
1 red pepper, diced
1/2c red onion, diced
1 jalapeño pepper, thinly sliced
2T olive oil
1⁄2 tsp Sea Salt
2 T dry sake, optional
1/4c cilantro leaves, gently torn

In a medium bowl, combine scallops and lime juice. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight. Remove scallop from refrigerator and stir in bell pepper, jalapeno pepper and onion. Dress with olive oil, sea salt, and sake. Refrigerate for at least another hour. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve.